Iraq and Kurdistan - compiled by L. Wells of RAF Hinaidi

Text from accompanying documentation by Voyager Press.

"Baghdad, RAF Hinaidi, Ser Amadia [Amadiya], Rutbah Fort, Kurdistan, Babylon, 1934­1936. Album of photographs centering on the indigenous ways of life throughout Iraq, also providing some insight into the presence of the RAF, from Kurdistan to Basra and in between, during the British Mandate controlled administration of the Hashemite Kingdom of Iraq, captured in striking snapshot views by officer L. Wells while he served with the Medical Service at the RAF General Hospital in Hinaidi as part of the "British Forces in Iraq" RAF Command.

Oblong 8vo. string­tied album, brown cloth boards, measuring approximately 32,5 x 23,5 x 2 cm, front endpaper inscribed L. Wells, whose name also appears captioned to the verso of a group photograph, and in a list of signatures on a photographed RAF menu card. With a illustrated manuscript title page featuring hand trimmed snapshot photographs, and RAF logo cuttings from official stationery. Contains 257 gelatin silver print photographs, captioned in manuscript buy the officer, mounted with corners onto taupe cardstock leaves separated by web patterned tissue guards. Photographs vary in size, the smallest measuring approximately 4,5 x 6 cm, and the largest approximately 14 x 10 cm, with the exception of one large RAF hospital staff photograph measuring 21 x 16,5 cm. Wear and punctures to boards, otherwise internally in Very Good Condition, featuring several most excellent photographs of the inhabitants.

Officer L. Wells was attached to RAF Hinaidi, employed in a laboratory of the RAF General Hospital at Hinaidi. A medical man, skilled photographer, and somewhat of an artist. Royal Air Force Station Habbaniya was an evolving cantonment called RAF Dhibban during this period, with services such as the hospital being near completion. RAF Habbaniya was fully operational from October 1936 to 31 May 1959. [Air Headquarters was initially situated in the Old British Residency in Baghdad. The officers were accommodated in various messes in Baghdad and the airmen in a compound at Southgate. In December 1928 the Headquarters moved from Baghdad to RAF Hinaidi Cantonment and was located in one block of the original RAF General Hospital buildings. Apart from the Air Officer Commanding's staff mess, all the AHQ personnel were then accommodated at RAF Hinaidi. Under the Anglo­Iraqi treaty of June 1930, the RAF agreed to withdraw from Hinaidi and Mosul within five years of Iraqi Independence. A reduced force was to reside at Sin el Dhibban approximately sixty miles from Baghdad. Construction for the new camp named RAF Dhibban had begun in 1934 and from 1936 flying squadrons were based there. In January 1937 Air Headquarters and the personnel moved from RAF Hinaidi Cantonment to the newly built RAF Dhibban, which was officially renamed RAF Habbaniya on 31 May 1938. The Air Officer Commanding then lived in Air House at Habbaniya.

A chronicle of civilian life in Iraq during the rule of King Ghazi bin Faisal under sustained British colonial influence, the people seemingly unaffected by foreign presence although representing an era of some anti­British sentiment. Nostalgic views of a beautiful Baghdad are followed by a journey north into Iraqi Kurdistan and a tour of Babylon, and complemented with seldom­seen views of Hinaidi and important RAF sites to which the photographer was connected.

Historic scenes in and around Baghdad include civilians peacefully engaged in their trades and long­standing customs, amidst the numerous remains of ancient civilizations, exquisite architecture, and some contemporary development of Western influence including an airport. The golden domes and minarets of the al­ Kadhimiya Mosque, immense ancient stone figures standing unprotected outside the Iraq museum, the Ottoman Qushla clock tower, the Mausoleum of Sheikh Umar Suhrawardi, Bab al­Wastani (Wastani Gate), are some of the sites captured in photographs. All sorts of people appear in snapshot street scenes, including a scribe offering letter writing services from an outdoor table, groups gathered at a traditional tea house or in front of shops, elders and youngsters, Arab women with young children, Bedouins travelling on camels, a copper smith, a snake charmer, and some merchants. Wells is particularly fascinated by a young lady selling fresh chipatta bread with an alluring smile. A scant few photographs are from Basra, so indicated in the captions.

A two ­week leave in 1935 sees the officer to the Ser Amadia rest camp in Iraqi Kurdistan, presenting an opportunity to tour the environs, including Kurdish and Assyrian settlements and villages in the mountainous region. Views of Camp Amadia at the top of a rocky gorge and the means to access it, serve to illustrate just how isolated it was. Also paying a visit to the Kurdish town of Amadia [Amadiya], he photographs the ancient city gate, as well as a lovely view of the dwellings made of stone walls and thatched roofs, one Assyrian home crafted of mere tree branches and leaves, and the old minaret. [Amadia is an ancient mountain top village and Hill station situated along a tributary to the Great Zab river in the Dahuk Governorate of Iraqi Kurdistan and is now popular summer resort.] While in the Kurdistan district, he takes snapshot photos of an Assyrian village called Haisi [more recently known as Haisse] and another called Kulava, as well as Assyrian goat herders and Assyrian wedding celebrations. A sparsely inhabited village located in "Paradise Alley" at the foot of the mountains is lush with vegetation and thus well cultivated, this place being called "Teruanish." At the quaint alpine village Sulav, he observes the waterfall with a dwelling perched at the top of the cliff from which it flows. From Dohuk we find a scarce photograph of a large fortress type of building, seen from the approach. Views of the river Zab include a rudimentary wooden bridge with stone pillars. In these remote parts of northern Iraq, several Kurdish and Assyrian people were met with, and photographed, generally showing their costume and characteristics, their textile works and living off the land. A tour of Babylon's and its prized antiquities consumes three pages of the album and is accompanied by two related ephemeral documents printed in London."